Stage 13: The End of the Beginning

St. Nicolas to Zermatt

Friday, July 19

"This is the end.  My only friend, the end" Jim Morrison, The Doors

We left Nicholas early in the morning, after eating a breakfast similar to the others that we had in Switzerland. We trodded through the downtown area of quiet city of St. Nicholas, which was quiet and cool. We were walking up the valley past different cities to Zermatt, Switzerland.

We saw different animals like chicken, cows, and goats along the way. It was hard to believe that the Haute Route trail was finally coming to an end. This seemed like a long, drawn out, and anticlimactic ending to an epic and spectacular experience.  However, it was nice to have a relaxing walk up the valley so we could enjoy the scenery and the unveiling of the scenery in front of us. 

At the end of the valley we started into the woods, up a trail overlooking the railroad and leaving us to our final destination of Zermatt.

Finally, after a long distance and a semi-strenuous climb, we came to a meadow of goats overlooking the Mattertal Valley and the massive Matterhorn Mountain.  In the afternoon, the giant summit attracts clouds, so it was shrouded when we approached.  We took a looping trail on the right outskirts of town, then headed towards the village center, through old and modern homes and apartments.  Then, we entered another world.

We walked onto the bustling Main Street and shopping center of what could be the most expensive town in the world.  Once again, like in Chamonix, in the skiers/hikers Mecca, we were rubbing shoulders with the rich and the radical.  One on hand, we felt very out of place, heaving 35 lbs packs, brandishing trekking poles, and smelling less than fragrant, among the wealthiest people in Europe and maybe the world.  On the other hand, we felt more comfortable being among fellow travelers, hikers, climbers, and others on their way to the next adventure.  

We wandered through the endless mirage of hiking shops, resisting the urge to go in until we had found shelter.  The night before, we had brief wifi and I had booked 2 beds at the Matterhorn Hostel.  We asked some store owners directions to the hostel, and hiked the inclining hill to the hostel/Sparky's restaurant.  Unfortunately, the help desk wasn't open for another 2 hours, so we barged into the first bunk room we found.  Out of 6 bunks, two were occupied by a new Norwegian couple Sven and his girlfriend.  We showered and got a call from uncle Jim Tullmann, giving us some great ideas of working the blogging business angle while staying in Zermatt.  

When the reception counter opened we paid for our bunks and breakfast, and moved upstairs to another crowded bunk room.  We went into the restaurant and had a beer, talking with the owner, who had an Australian accent, but was from England, answering to the name of Sparky.  

After the beers, we decided to explore the town for other dining options.  We stopped by a salon with our touring map and asked for recommendations.  Out of the two places in the town center, the beauticians had recommended, Wallserkanne, was our restaurant of choice.  Before arriving, we came upon our 4 Norwegian friends we had met early and had a quick photo with them.   

When we got to the restaurant, it ended up being a little more fancy than we had planned.  However, we both enjoyed our own personal Swiss pizza, which was very good.  

We went back to the hostel and welcomed sleep with ease.