Stage 10: On Top of the World

Cabane de Moriy to Zinal

Monday, July 15

"...the brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, fresh and healthy blood circulates through the brain, the mind works well, the eye clear, the step is firm, and the days exertion always makes the evening's repose thoroughly enjoyable." Dr. David Livingstone

The alarm on my phone went off at 4:15am, we packed, ate, and I waited for my dad outside, admiring the glacier at Cabane de Moriy. While waiting, I chatted with a couple of elderly Englishmen and suddenly, we saw movement on the other side of the patio.  I slowly recorded and approached the animal on the patio, where it couldn't see me.  I peered over and got a birds eye view from about 6 feet away.  The Ibex bolted down the rocky slope towards the snow and glacier.  I got some great footage!

With our backpacks cinched, we headed down the switchbacks, across iced over snow, and down into the Val de Moriy.  We took a path along the right side of the mountain, with the glacier receding behind us, while the lake below opened up before us.  

During a long stretch of trail, I sometimes enjoy the silence and natural sounds around me; the birds, cow bells, trickling streams, roaring rivers, etc.  However, when climbing steep paths, many times I will plug in my ear buds and blast music to synchronize my feet to the beat.  When we arrived at the end of the lake, I paused my music, to stay aware of the cows around me.  

We pass many pastures with cows or goats, and later in the route, sheep.  As we started to climb this hill, we attracted a lot of cows-- only a few big ones, but lots of calves.  They surrounded us like they thought we were their mom!  

We continued upward and onward.  Eventually, we were passed by the young Norwegian couple, who were in way better shape than us.  The switchbacks went on for what seemed like forever!  However, with music in my ears, I made it to the top!  I would like would like to dedicate this Col to the following: Vampire Weekend, Foster the People, and Radiohead.

A little further up from the pass, I found the Norwegian couple resting in the sun, so I joined them for a light nap, while waiting for my dad to come.  They let me know that Markella had injured her knee in the rocks below Cabane de Moriy and was going to catch a bus to the next valley, Zinal.  

Eventually, my dad joined us, as well as Rick and Anne.  The pass, Col de Sorebois, has an incredible 360 degree panoramic view of the valleys and alpine mountains surrounding us.  This may have been the best view that we had on the trip.

After a while, Marcus joined us on top, and groups of people started heading down one at a time.  The descent would be very long, starting at a ski lift and going down through farm country and a dirt road, which would zig-zag all the way to the valley floor.  I left my dad behind to go at his own pace, while I maintained a quick walk with the Maltese and Marcus.  

When we reached the the valley floor, the first priority was to find a place to stay.  I was a little worried moving on without my dad, but I could see him high up on the switchback dirt road.   So the group of us wandered through the streets if the small town of Zinal.  Black timber log homes, both old and new, showed the unique culture of This particular valley.  The downtown area was a little more modern with small shops and hotels along the main strip.  

As we approached the Main Street, we saw Markella hobbling towards us in her walking sticks!  She would take a day off to see if her knee would improve, but later, would decide to go back to Chamonix to have it checked by a doctor. 

We all went our own ways to obtain lodging.  I went to the tourist office to get advice on a place to stay as withdrew some money in francs.  I decided on Auberge Alpina, because it was the cheapest and had wifi.  I went 10 minutes back, close to the trailhead, where a cosy little refuge sat with a beautiful view of the mountains up the valley.  The manager showed me the dormitory on the top floor.  A closed in space with lots of mattresses.  It was perfect for what we needed.  

Leaving my pack in the room, I went outside and walked toward the trailhead, to greet my dad, who just finished the hike.  We paid for the room, showered, and went into town to find our hiking companions.  They were relaxing with coffee and beer; Markella, Marcus, Andrew and Mariella.  

We decided to have dinner at La Trift and ordered raclette.  We started with a soup and salad, then the main dish.  It was a very interesting dish.  They have a device that holds half a wheel of cheese and a burner that melts the top layer.  The melted cheese is scraped into a plate and eaten with boiled potatoes, pickled onions, pickles, and bread.  It's like fondue, only a little at a time.  Once you finish your portion (small), you have to wait your turn for the next rotation of cheese scraping.  It was delicious.  

For dessert we had a peach ice cream with a shot of preach liquior.  It was also delish.

After, chatting, we said good night, Dad and I went back to Alpina and slept well.