E5 stage 6: Over the Mountains and Under the Snow

Oberstdorf, Germany to Kemptner Hutte

Tuesday, July 23

OUR FIRST DAY ON THE E5!

The E5 is a long distance trail that goes through Germany, Austria, and Italy, in 29 stages or days.  Since we had a limited amount of time, we decided to jump ahead to the Alpine section of the trail (in stage 6) for 7 stages.  The route is very popular with Germans and we found the first stages a little crowded.

We Awoke at the Pension Birkenhoff in Oberstdorf, Germany. We had a late breakfast, talked to some German girls who were hiking, and then took off. We hiked through the town in the cool morning air, then a long forest walk, then up hill through pastures.  After hiking through the forest, the trail steepened and we came to a small town in the mountains. A little further we came across a place that sold fresh cheese made from the cows that were grazing around us. We got 100g to share and then continued on our way.

From the cheese hut, our way grew increasingly steep, jungle-ish, and hot. We passed hikers coming down while we headed up. Since we've been so used to the high, cool, Alpine air, we were not used to this hot valley air. However, coming from Bakersfield, I knew that this would've been like a cool day in August.  

The trail crossed streams, and climbed, extremely steeply, up an almost vertical zigzag trail, and through valley or gorge that was overrun with leftover winter snow.  Climbing along the side of the valley were some places that were very steep and the Alpine club had installed chains and steel ropes.

One part of the trail was next to a huge wall of remaining snow, that was curled over the trail, creating an exited hole hikers could travel through.

The valley opened up into a grassy, meadow-like bowl.  And up to the right, perched in the side of the bowl, our destination, the Kemptner Hutte.  We made it to the top and found a large plethora of boots drying in the sun, which showed a large number of people staying.  The Hutte had a 290 guest capacity, but we were hoping for something less crowded.  

We found out that most of the huttes in Germany and Austria were part if the DAV (Deutche Alpine Verin=German Alpine Club) and members got 50% off of lodging.  Conveniently, my dad and I were members of the French Alpine Club and the benefits applied.  So instead if paying €20, we only paid €10.  However, in these Hutte's you get what you  pay for-- which is a large, wide mattress divided in 8, 2 foot bed sections.  Basically, we slept like we were sardines.  

Since we were on the early side, we had a lot of down time sitting in the dining area.  I used this time for blogging and journaling.  As the afternoon/evening went on, more and more hikers showed up.  Right before dinner, the dining area was flooded with groups drinking beer and talking loudly in German.  I decided to listen to some music to block out the sound, so I put in my earbuds and played The Hobbit Soundtrack.  Instantly, I was taken away to the world of J.R.R Tolkien in Middle Earth.  A small pub in the Shire, I was surrounded by, albeit, large, German Hobbits, enjoyed ale and conversation.  

Back in reality, we had salad and stewed beef with späpzle (potato pasta pieces).  We talked to a couple traveling the E5, who gave us some traveling advice and a look at their maps.

We went to our dorm room, which probably held 64 people, in cramped sardine mattress sections.  Since I was sleeping in such a confined space, I took to Advil pm to get me through the night along with earplugs.

Trains, Signs, and Automobiles

Zermatt to Gruben to Zurich to Constanz, Germany

Sunday, July 21

After our second night in the Matterhorn hostel, in Zermatt, Switzetland, and ending the Haute Route, it was time for transition and travel.  We needed to get to Constanz, Germany to start the E5.

We set out for the train station and rode a train north from Zermatt to the next town up called Tsach.   From there we made a sign saying that we wanted to go back to the town of Gruben to retrieve my glasses. A nice couple picked us up and we talked about hiking on the way to the base of the mountain where we would continue up into Gruben.  

We caught another ride with another nice couple all the way up to Gruben, because they were staying in their chalet in the mountains.  After getting to the hotel I retrieve my glasses and we started back down the mountain, getting a ride with a nice lady and gentleman.  

When reaching the bottom of the mountain, we made another sign to Brig and were picked up by 2 young Swiss gentlemen on their way home from golf.  We explained that we were trying to get to Zurich and they said we were going the wrong way and took us to the train station and offered to buy us tickets to Zurich!  We tried to refuse, but they insisted on showing us Swiss kindness.  So we excepted and boarded the train for Zurich.

Riding the train through the countryside of Switzerland was great.  So many small villages and beautiful rolling hills and mountains.  

Once arriving in Zurich, we decided to hitch hike to Constanz, Germany.  We walked up through the city until we got to the entrance of the highway.  It took awhile to find someone going our way, but eventually we were picked up by a young guy named Martin, a mechanic.  He drove us all the way to Constanz, Germany, and even dropped us off at a youth hostel!  Really nice guy!

However, the hostel was full... Of kids.  A literal youth hostel.  So we walked down the road to a hotel, booked a room, ate a dinner of schnitzel and a pasta made of potatoes, along with a beer.  We noticed the prices were much cheaper than Switzerland!

With the end of a long day of travel, we did some laundry in our room and slept.