E5 Stage 7: Lightening and Thunder

Kemptner Hutte to Memminger Hutte

Wednesday, July 24

Even with two Advil p.m., sleeping sardine-style is weird. They stack you along a long mattress, like hot dogs, with 2 feet of shoulder sleeping space-- very tiny. Plus it was weird sleeping in between  my dad and a stranger.  However, I never even got to see them, because we got up at 5:00am.  We had to try and gather our belongings without leaving anything and without disturbing the people around us.  So with ninja dexterity, we got our belongings with headlamps and stealth, and took our things out into the hallway; without disturbing the 64 people in the same room.  

We made it down to the dining hall by 5:45 AM, a record time, but we decided not to eat breakfast. Other hikers were getting ready for an early start, but we were the first on the trail, along with another lady with an orange deuter backpack. We also saw her yesterday on the trail.  

As we left the Hutte, we had a beautiful morning view of the grassy bowl we were in.  Surrounding this basin, like a Kings Crown, were rugged spikes and spires of small mountains, entrenching the relatively small house. The trail started on a short uphill trip straight up to the coal, which wasn't that bad.  We saw the last German marker before entering Austria.  

The trail down the other side of the mountain was not as easy going up the small col. Instead, it was steep, rocky, and slippery from gravel. However, one cool advantage was spotting small local Alpine wildlife, which were salamanders!  They are like tiny lizards with a deep, scaly, rubbery black skin. They moved in a squirming motion and ask Irving or coiling their small bodies when they sense danger. They were actually plenty along the trail and sometimes in danger in the center. I really enjoyed These harmless creatures. 

The orange backpack girl took the lead majority of the time. The trail led us along a nice, clear river and the rocky surroundings gave way to pine trees and greenery. Down to the forest, the mountain trail led to steep and still rocky switchbacks, until the end of the slope, we entered the valley between.  We had a view of continuous river flow and waterfalls.  

The trail turned into a dirt road, leading gently down the valley along the river. A steep gorge gave us a powerful view of a tall waterfall, crashing into pools below. The river meandered downward through valley with sky reaching mountains. 

Finally we arrived in the village of Holzgau. The village provided us with information, fresh food supplies (cheese, sausage, bread, chocolate, and fruits), latte macchiato, and one hour of Wi-Fi for 2€.  

We then boarded a bus that we thought would be taking us to the town from which we would hike, however, the bus took us in the opposite direction! Luckily, dad had already made a sign, so with three rides in 1 hour, we were far up the mountain road towards Memminger Hutte. 

The dirt road was not very steep, but took energy we needed for the trail. So I distributed some of the  food and we had a late lunch. Further up the path, Following the river, there was an opening in a small flat valley, with a nice view of the mountains all around. We approached a steal rope pulley system that towed supplies up to the hut at around 789 m or 2588 feet, which was the distance we were to climb that day.  

After passing the goods loading contraption, we crossed the river and started up a very long, steep, and hot set of switchbacks. The trail led us up through the pine trees, then green shrubs, and eventually a rocky path surrounded by green pastures. However, on the way up, the clouds started closing in and a small sprinkle of rain began. We used our pack cover, but that's all I used. I enjoyed the cool breeze and rain as we marched up the path.  We were passed by 4 American girls, who were part of a group, and I made it my goal to pass them.  However, the rain increased into large droplets, and even though it felt good, wearing only a t-shirt and pants may not be enough.  Then it started pouring.  I relented and put on my rain shell reluctantly, yet thankfully.  

The steep rainy path took us up a sloping valley, encrusted with snow that hasn't melted yet.  Then, the rain lightened as I climbed the steep rocky crag.  In the not so far distance i saw a flash of lightening, 3 seconds later the roll of the thunder. Once again, God opened up the heavens, but this time, it rained harder than I could ever remember.  I put my hooded head down and trudged up the now streaming trail and I prayed.  Another flash with thunder following instantly.  I prayed for my dad 30 minutes behind me.  I prayed for the safety of the other hikers coming up this deluged  ascent.   As the flash and boom filled the air, I prayed that I would reach the cabin.  

I remember reading in our guide book that during bad weather, you should stay away from the tops of mountains.  But where were we to go?  Going back down for 3 hours in the rain on muddy trails was out of the question.  There was no other shelter.  So, as I tightened my grip on 2 metallic, highly conductive trekking poles, I climbed higher up the mountain and offered myself up to God's will.  I'm sure the sins of my past and future would warrant many strikes, if justice were to be wrought on me today.  However, I knew that God wasn't going to strike me down.  I remembered that God's wraith against sin was unconditionally satisfied  when Christ bore the punishment for our sin on the cross.  In fact, with rain pouring over my hood, covered bag, and soaked pants, I was reminded that God always rescues his people and in my life (especially this trip), he has saved me so many times in so many ways.  He has never given me up or let me down.  His love never fails.

As I rounded the pooled trail, the clouds rolled back, the rain ceased, and Memminger Hutte glistened in the bright sunlight.  Once again, God parted the waters, pulled back the clouds, and saved his creation.  

However, my dad and other hikers were still on the route, and as I climbed the hill to the cabin, I looked back to the hills and watched the clouds roll back in to block out visibility of the trail from whence I came (LOTR).  And the rain came back.

I went inside, put my boots and jacket to dry in the boot room (yes, the boot room), and reserved 2 beds for my dad and I-- whenever he got there...

The dining hall was crowded, again. I kept an eye out and 20-30 minutes later the other hikers and my dad came in from the rain.  After taking care of his gear, we found 2 seats next to a German group of 6.  We ordered beer and different items from the menu.  I think I had schnitzel with mashed potatoes followed by apple strudel.